![]() ![]() TNTs are actually totally safe if they're non-existent, however this also disables their chain reactions. Jump across them to the safe area, then walk up to the TNT Box. Up ahead will be oil drums, the rickety platforms for the Hazardous Wastes Dimension. Once on the other side, stand on the metallic platform on the right and Flip it so you fall through and collect the Wumpas. The Aku Aku Box on the right in particular is tough because it's out of sync with the platform: when the box is solid, the platform isn't! You'll want to bounce high off the box and then Flip the platform in to land safely. Yet again the easier path is to jump along the middle series of platforms, but box bashers will want to take out the boxes on the sides. If you break it with a Spin, you'll get the " Megaphoning It In" Trophy! Remember to hold the Jump button for extra height, and to Double Jump! On the other side, Flip the rock structure on the left to solidity so you can jump up and smash the ? Box, then drop back down to the main path and smash the four Boxes. On the other side, casual players will want to make the bridge solid to walk across, while expert box hunters will want to make the two Boxes flanking it solid, then jump out to bounce on them. Smash the various boxes around the start area, then Flip the bridge ahead so that you can walk across it. Sanity Peak level: you can see boxes and other objects swap being existent and not. To begin, pick up Lani-Loli and use the Right Trigger to see the effect of Flipping. This is also the earliest level in the game where you can get the " Ladies First" Trophy for beating a level as Coco! For simplicity, this guide will refer to this as "Flipping". Then reassemble the clock (with a new battery) and see how it goes.This level serves as your introduction to Lani-Loli's ability, which is to phase-shift objects in and out of existence. Again don't use too much.Ĭheck that the flip card retaining pins are not angled back too far as to create excessive drag on the cards. Then advance the mechanism by hand using the setting knob to work in the lubricant. Add a couple of drops at each location where the drums contact the axle. Lubricate the flip card spool wheels at the main metal axle prior to refitting the motor. Move your attention to the flip card mechanism. Is/was it lubricated? If it was or is, strip down the gearbox, clean down all the gears and re lubricate all the gears with a light plastic friendly lubricant such as clock oil. This indicates to me the possibility of excessive drag/friction somewhere within the clock. The motor unit in your report seems to run happily without a load, ie when not driving the flip card display. Your report back seems to indicate to me that the fault presents once the motor is paired with the readout mechanism. I have a theory, as I don't own a tuning fork clock it is only a theory on what might be going on here. Is there anyone on this forum with some kind of experience with these clocks? I would love to be able to fix it, but opening up the casing of the motor already looks like a possible horror-story to me :-) Replacing a capacitor is something I will be able to do, once I have located the correct culprit and have sourced a correct replacement for it. These clocks are actually quite sophisticated as far as the technology behind it goes.Īttached a link where you can find more info on them, also someone who suggests a method of repairing them and also has a suggestion of why they break down. When I first came across this clock, I thought that it had something to do with playing music, but since then, I have learned. It did work, for several hours and after that, I can only get it to start and stop after max 2 to 3 seconds :-( ![]() This one, I (unfortunately) bought as a working specimen. I owned one of these (I believe a yellow one) years and years ago and because that one was working perfectly, I never bothered to look inside.
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